Travel

Summer hikers enjoy the view from Mount Tsubakuro. (Mainichi)

One late September day I headed to Mount Tsubakuro, a 2,763-meter peak in Japan's Northern Alps that is a popular school trip destination and a relatively easy hike suitable for inexperienced climbers like myself.

The hiking trail begins at Nakabusa hot spring in the city of Azumino. The trail -- called Gassen Ridge -- is one of the three steepest trails in the Northern Alps, and proves merciless from the get-go. As I stumble over big rocks and dodge tree roots, I soon find myself out of breath. After passing four benches situated at approximately 30-minute intervals, I finally arrive at Gassen Hut, a rest stop available for refreshments but no overnight stays.

From here, the view opens up and I'm greeted by birch and rowan trees that have turned bright red and yellow. I must look pretty worn out, because every person I pass going the other way throws words of encouragement my way: "You can do it, just a bit more to go!" and "The view is amazing at the top!" among them. Their kindness revitalizes me.

Arriving at Enzan Lodge three and a half hours after beginning my hike, the peak is now just a stone's throw away. Distinctly shaped, weathered granite boulders reach toward the sky. Larch trees provide bursts of green. It's a different world from the one down below. Treading on magical white sand, I head toward the summit. Once there, I sit atop a boulder with my feet dangling off the edge, enjoying the first-class view of other mountains in the Northern Alps.

Walking down takes some two and a half hours. On my ascent, I had been struck by the urge to turn back on more than one occasion, but on my way down, I revel in my desire to come back again.

The mountaintop enters snow season now, with Enzan Lodge closing shop on Nov. 23 after foliage season ends. Nagano Prefectural Police's mountain rescue unit advises that winter hikers wear clothing that will adequately protect them from wind and low temperatures, as mountain weather conditions can change dramatically during a hike. As gentle conditions give way to harsher ones on Mount Tsubakuro, at greatest risk are inexperienced hikers who come expecting an easy autumn hike. The mountain's changing seasons, though, may be another reason why we find it so appealing. (By Asuka Ohira, Nagano Bureau)