Travel

The century-old adoptive house where Niimi spent four months of his life has been designated an important cultural asset by the city of Handa. (Mainichi)

The famous Japanese children's story "Gongitsune" (Gon, the little fox) written in 1932 by Nankichi Niimi (1913-1943) is still widely enjoyed by people of all ages today, breaking many a reader's heart with its tragic ending. Thinking back to my own encounter with the tale, I recall that Gon delivered fall delicacies such as chestnuts and matsutake mushrooms to Hyoju to make up for his earlier mischief. I decide it's just the right season to visit Handa, Aichi Prefecture, the renowned author's hometown and the place where his best-known work is set.

"In a place called Nakayama near our village, there was a castle where Lord Nakayama lived. In the mountains a short ways away from this castle lived a fox named Gon," the story begins.

With its semi-underground construction and rooftop lawn, the museum blends in with its surroundings. (Mainichi)

It is at the foot of Nakayama that the Niimi Nankichi Memorial Museum opened in 1994. A 10-minute cab ride from Chita-Handa Station on Nagoya Railroad's Kowa Line, the museum is surrounded by a vast lawn and a grove thick with trees. The building itself is partially imbedded underground in an effort to preserve the natural landscape, with the grass-covered rooftop forming gentle slopes.

On display inside are artifacts tracing the brief life of Niimi, who died of tuberculosis at the age of 29, as well as dioramas depicting his books "Gongitsune" and "Tebukuro o kaini" (Buying gloves).

The room where Niimi wrote his final stories, including "Kitsune" (Fox), two months before his death. (Mainichi)

Born to a tatami-mat artisan, the author lost his mother to illness when he was 4 years old and was adopted by his maternal grandmother when he was 8. He later moved to Tokyo to start a writing career, but contracted tuberculosis at age 21 and returned in despair to his hometown when he was 23 years old. "The loneliness (Niimi) experienced during his childhood and the absurdity of not having control over his own life is reflected in his work," says museum curator Koji Toyama.

I found one photograph on display particularly striking. In it, Niimi, who had had trouble finding work as a result of his illness, is seen surrounded by a group of female students in their school uniforms with a big grin on his face. Finally landing a teaching position at Aichi Anjo Girls' High School, he spent four professionally and personally fulfilling years there. "He was a quiet and strict teacher, but with a sense of humor," recalls 83-year-old Chizuko Kato, one of Niimi's former students.

A hot spring located not far from the museum is named after the famous fox. (Mainichi)

"Gongitsune," which Niimi wrote when he was 18 years old, has appeared in Japanese elementary school textbooks for about the past 30 years. Located on the south side of the museum grounds is Nakayama -- where Gon is said to have lived and is now called "Dowa no mori" (Fairytale forest) -- with a walking trail that takes about seven-minutes on foot. A small path called "Gon no komichi" (Gon's alley) runs through the forest, where one almost expects Gon to appear from the brush.

"Red spider lilies covered the graveyard like red fabric," Niimi said in describing the place where Hyoju's mother was laid to rest.

In late September every year, 2 million spider lilies turn the banks of the Yakachi River located directly to the north of the museum bright red. Niimi's childhood friend, Daizo Oguri, 91, used to play with the author in the river, the same one where Hyoju caught an eel to feed his ailing mother. Oguri began planting spider lily bulbs on the riverbank on his own 20 years ago, and with the support of the Handa Municipal Government and the local community, the spot has now grown into a tourist attraction.

"Dedemushi hiroba" or "Snail plaza," is named after a poetry collection produced by Niimi and his students. (Mainichi)

By the river is "Dedemushi hiroba" (Snails' plaza), named after a poem Niimi wrote in a poetry anthology he compiled with his students. The setting sun shines against a snail statue as children climb up and down its back and glide down a fox slide. (By Yoko Kimura, Lifestyle News Center)